My French Alps Week In Beers
There are few destinations on Earth steeped in as much luxurious mythos as the French Alps. Just the term ‘French Alps’ can conjure images of towered mountains covered in snow, dotted with cosy wooden chalet’s where the wealthy discuss the day’s skiing and which segment of society are next in line for a dose of suffering.
Well, this wasn’t my experience with the French Alps at all. First of all, we went in summer so there wasn’t a single snowflake in sight (insert your own offended Millennial joke here). Second, turns out chalet doesn’t mean mansion, it just means a house in the mountains, which is where we stayed with our friends Tania and Pierre who moved here from Belgium back in 2019 where they had their little fella, Joey (named after their Australian adventures and the Friends binge they did in lockdown).
Just an average alpine view. I LOVED being on video calls here.
As I was with Belgians, I drank a lot of good beer, even if most of it was not native to the area. In the nearby town of Annecy and in the alp area we stayed(Les Villa sur Thône), there is a beer scene that is not only growing in scale and popularity, it has rather excitingly developed a unique style defined by delicate flavours, golden hue and approachable ABV. Being in the summer not only was this perfect drinking weather but the Alps made for incredible beer drinking scenery that will forever make me think twice about saying the beach is the best place for a beer.
Picked up by Pierre, we arrived in Les villa sur Thône by way of Geneva and Annecy and went straight to a BBQ for Pierre’s birthday (yep, good friend picking us up on his special day). At his party I had three Belgian Affligem beers which are a very nice and sessionable blonde beers. I chased them with three equally Belgian Grimbergen beers which I don’t really remember very well (other than I preferred the Affligem) but they’re probably brewed in France under contract so it’s all good.
(THIS WAS THE VIEW FROM THE BLOODY GARAGE THE BBQ WAS AT FFS)
It was about quality over quantity on Sunday at a gorgeous outdoor venue called L'Esperluette where we enjoyed a couple of short called of Blonde avec te noir (blonde beer with black tea). I reviewed this beer with Pierre and it was amazing. It had a light orangey blonde body with the black tea being a delicate, earthy and piquant touch. I converted the whole table to this one, an absolute winner.
L'Esperluette is summer only so the locals make the most of it while they can.
Monday was Pierre’s actual birthday so we went to this lovely roadside cafe in the cycling town of Manigold. While there I had a blonde by Brasserie Veyrat, brewers and distillers based on the other side of Lac d’Annecy near the commune of Rumilly. This was another great example of the distinct beers of the alps region, an incredible balance of classic and modern blonde flavours that might be too updated for some but were superb and sessionable for me.
After Pierre’s birthday dinner and ice cream I had a Vedett, an ‘extra IPA’ by staple Belgian brewery Duvel. I drank it while we shared travel videos and it did the job. That’s one of the great things about hanging out with Belgians, they have good beer just lying around.
Two equally aesthetic photos.
Tuesday was a beer free day. Katie and I went to Annecy and had a proper explore of the city where I ate a croque monsieur and a much more touristy raclette sandwich. Having done both I recommend you do too. Annecy has a fair bit to explore if you’re into medieval buildings an upmarket dinning, just do so outside of the tourists rush which happens daily for good reason. Early morning and later evening are a great time to enjoy this anceint lakeside city.
Beautiful Annecy.
On Wednesday I decided it was time that we went on a scenic mountain walk which accidently ended up being a hike after I decided it would be cool to go back a different way to which we came. Making it back to Tania and Pierre’s we were exhausted but still had enough energy to go into town and play petanque while drinking a couple of beers, both Belgian, a refershing Leffe and amazing Tripel Karmaliet (one of my favourite finds of the trip).
While in France we recommend playing petanque and enjoying the hilariously mistranslated snacks.
Back at home Tania recommended a Bierre Val-Dieu, a Belgian abbey brewed beer, which at 6% (combined with the unnecesary physical activity I’d done that day) went straight to my head. My only note is that it was that Tania made a good recommendation. When then had some wine with borderline lifechanging alpine cheese and pasta before capping off the night with a St Feuillien Blonde, a 7.5% family brewed Belgian beer (since 1873) which was spicey, sour, hot and fruity at once. It paired will with Joey attempting to play the accordion and succeeding at being the cutest concert I’d ever accidently attended.
Being friends with Belgians makes drinking beer at least 100% better than it was before.
Thursday was our final day in the alps and my notes say I had a Double Ambree at Brasserie Artisinale which I described as “borderline sickly in caramel grace”. I don’t really remember the beer or the venue and don’t have any photos of it so I’m sorry to say that’s about as specific as I can get. I’d edit this whole paragraph out but I like to tell the honest truth even if it makes for an infuriating read once in a while.
The five of us then went out to dinner at local pasta joint where the owner makes whatever pasta she feels like that week. Alongside my ragu I had another Belgian beer, Nepo Blance by Brasserie Francoise. At 5.2% this was a sweeter, lighter blonde beer that I enjoyed quite a bit with my dinner.
Finally, back at home we retired for one last evening drink in Tania, Pierre, and Joey’s cosy chalet, Chimay Blue; rich and dark and amazing, just a true Belgian classic.
Pierre, myself and God.
The French Alps are a great place to be for anyone who loves any kind of outdoor activity; hiking, running, cycling, skiing and generally just looking at mountains. It also has a great beer culture that is fighting for a spot next to an established wealth of cuisine and wine. For me though it will always be a spot where I spent a week with the dear friends I made by travelling which makes it it’s own unique type of destination.
