My Favourite Bar In Amsterdam
Amsterdam is a lot. While exploring this exceedingly strollable city your eyes aren’t sure if they should be looking at stooped and wonky townhouses, the low and slow canals or the never ending rapids of locals flying by on bikes with no helmets and no recognition of the beauty that surrounds them. You’re wondering what type of person could accept these surroundings as normal as they ring their bells at the crowds of tourists for which you are an unwilling member.
Also you’re stoned.
With that in mind, the sort of venue that can transport you out of all that picturesque madness has to be really special, especially when it’s in the epicentre of Europes most visited city. In De Wildeman manages to be just that, a relaxed hideaway from an elite and imposing city with local charm and good beer, in the throbbing centre of Amsterdam no less.
The staff are aproned, the walls clad with the knick-knacks or Euro beer history and the beers are poured into the glass that was blown just for them. Some are drinking for pleasure with mates and lit cigarettes. Others are solitary, huddled around a bucket list defining bottle, savouring the complex flavours in this holy church of beer.
The first time I went to In De Wildeman (review here), the old rooster working there was asked by a young American couple whether he serves more Dutch locals or tourists. The grumpy old grey fella said he wanted to serve more Dutch but they are put off by all the tourists. The respectful couple then asked where he likes to go for a drink and oh boy…
“I am not going to tell you that. I’m sorry but I’m not. We need places Dutch people can go to have a beer. We are a city of half a million yet we have 25 million tourists a year. Some of them care about our culture but the rest want to treat it like fucking Disneyland!”
Later when Katie and I were both on our phones he made a joke about us clearly enjoying each others company.
We left, explored Amsterdam, did the rest of our trip around Europe, went home, worked, lived through a pandemic, Panthers won back to back premierships and then somehow when we returned to Amsterdam I inisted we go back to the place where the guy working there hates tourists.
I am very glad we did.
Minus what I assumed is a fastidious dusting routine, the interior of In De Wildeman remains unchanged but the spirit is anew. Perhaps it was due to Covid but the Dutch don’t seem to be put off by the tourists anymore. Here they drink in symbiosis with the beer pilgrims, enjoying the local and European draught beers and giving the bar staff a chance to speak their native language.
I heard the old rooster who hates (or hated?) tourists still works there but most of the time I was served by Simon who not only was incredibly helpful with tips and recommendations but showed me their cellar when I mentioned I was a beer writer. Simon and other staff members stated they wanted more people like me coming here but I’m not really sure they need the press. With a central location, good reputation and stellar beer list, In De Wildeman is about as literal as it gets when it comes to selling itself.
I could talk all day about the revolving 18 taps (always fresh and listed on a chalkboard) or the half dozen menus of canned and bottled beers from Holland and Europe but you’d still be no closer to making a decision. What I recommend is that you start with a draught beer, whatever takes your fancy, sit down in the main bar to enjoy it and look out for any other beer pilgrims to get chatting with. Katie and I had a lovely chat with Barb and Julie, an ex-military American couple with decades worth of European beer recommendations. However, it was Carlson from Canada that recommended a Kriek by Amsterdam local Tommie Sjef that ended up being our favourite beer in A’dam.
Ordering by the bottle at In De Wildeman is like ordering a bottle of fine wine anywhere else. The staff will ask what you like, make some recommendations and bring it to you in a cute little basket with as many (or as little) glasses as you need. Some bottles will cost you 20 euro and the top end go up to 80. Ours was 60 which was a bit more than what we’d normally pay but well worth it to see the downstairs cellar and enjoy a fantastic beer by an exciting local up-and-comer.
At the time of writing, I haven’t dug too deep into their food menu but it is a grazing menu featuring meats and cheese from local producers, the stand out being meatballs with spicy sauce. It may take a while to get to your table, possibly to keep you drinking a little longer in case you needed an excuse.
Whether you want a pre-dinner stomach liner, a place to sip well into the night, a Mecca to meet similarly minded beer tragics or you just a quiet place to escape the circus for a bit, In De Wildemen is waiting to be your Mokum.
It’s my favourite bar in Amsterdam and maybe it will be yours too.
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